French Polynesia: Moorea

So, after a sobering and unrestful night at the airport, I boarded my morning flight to Moorea, just 7 minutes away by plane. Normally, I'd opt for the option of the cheaper boat ride, but my island flights were cheaper when booking an island pass, so this part was included, and it saved me from having to take a bus or taxi to the dock. Also, it allowed me to stay in the airport long enough for the cafe to open where I chose two dark chocolate filled pastries and some mango/orange juice. Tres bon. Despite the rough introduction to French Polynesia, Moorea quickly turned my whole attitude around with its stunning landscapes.

Within 5 or 10 minutes from the airport, the transfer bus rounded the corner, revealing Cook's Bay, of course named for the British sailor who explored much of the area. The deep blue water sparkles, surrounded on both sides by thick green vegetation and unbelievably steep, looming green mountains. Even after seeing hundreds, maybe thousands, of pictures of this during my years of travel research, it was so much more impressive in person to get the feel of the magnitude and natural beauty of the place. I can't imagine the overwhelming awe that one must have felt upon discovering a place as magnificent as this. I continued on the ride, and luckily I found my hostel for the night to be friendly, surprisingly nice, and, most importantly, available for the night. The hostel has a nice view overlooking the water halfway between Cook's Bay and Opunohu Bay, a similar bay about a mile or two from Cook's Bay. I started the day fulfilling one of my many lifelong travel dreams: kayaking in Cook's Bay. The hostel had a few kayaks that were free, so I grabbed my camera and immediately headed out. Initially it was slow going, as the water is quite shallow and there are many reefs reaching up to the surface that must be dodged. Then, for a second, I was happy to be moving into some deeper, darker water. This sensation didn't last long, though, when I realized that Moorea is one of the places that people visit to do shark feedings, so not only are they around, they are accustomed to going near people for food. I picked up the pace with my paddling and soon rounded the corner of incredible Cook's Bay. I sat in the bay for a while, marvelling at the scenery, taking in the fact that I was truly there, paddling through the blue waters. Deciding not to stay idle for too long, I headed back to the pension/hostel for my next adventure of the day.

I set out on foot towards Opuhonu Bay, to see how it compared and, of course, to try to get more pictures. The tropical sun and humidity are apparent the moment you start walking, but how could I not explore a place like this? My first stop was the Sheraton Hotel for a nice tour. Everything about the place is luxurious, from the pool to the thatched hut restaurant on the beach to the overwater bungalows. I acted like I fit in and took a nice tour of the facilities for about an hour. Pictures of these overwater bungalows have always enchanted me, so another goal of mine was accomplished by actually seeing them in person...staying in them might be a different story, as the prices are astronomical - some of them started at about $1,100 per night. After my brief stay in the paradisiacal hotel, I returned to reality and continued walking.

I found a nice little place service pizza and sandwiches or a decent price according to their outdoor menu, but there were no workers to be found. Further on, I found a good local cafe that served chow mein, rice and bread, all for about $7, which is a great deal in this expensive area. I was even getting full during the meal, but I definitely wouldn't leave anything on my plate, since I knew I'd be hungry later. I found my way to Opuhonu Bay, and it was almost as impressive as Cook's, though not quite as grand. Palm trees lined the shore and despite the lack of beaches on most of the island, people were still everywhere, playing in the water. The interior of the island features a jagged peak known as the shark's tooth, and it was another familiar image that I'd seen over and over in pictures but was finally able to see the real thing. After that, I headed back to the pension and relaxed for the evening after my long walk. I was joined in the dorm room by a French couple and briefly by a French mother and daughter who apparently found me unbearable, as they changed to a private room just a few minutes after checking in. They couldn't get away that easily, though. The next morning as they were leaving and despite a language barrier, I managed to talk my way into a ride to the airport. Even though they were only going part of the way, the French lady drove me the whole way, which was quite nice. Merci boucoup. It's amazing how things always seem to work out when you're travelling. Divine intervention, providence, luck, skill...any of the above. Except when your things get stolen at the airport, then not so much.

(The upstairs hostel room in Moorea, taken from my bed - the opening overlooks the water.)

(Kayaking in Cook's Bay - note the stylish towel protecting my neck from sunburn and adding a tropical feel)

(The bungalows and beach of The Sheraton, taken from one of the walkways to more bungalows.)