Heading South

As I left Melbourne, I took a local train and walked through some random roads on the way to find my rental car agency, avoiding the $45 taxi fee to get to the "off-site" office - 25 km outside of town. After about 45 minutes of trains and walking, I found the place and saved $41, so I was happy with myself, though I was soon a lot happier when I saw my rental car. I had been accustomed to Willy and my horrible rental car in the North Island of NZ a few months ago, and it was a complete surprise to see such a nice van waiting for me. I had booked the van the day before, comparing prices and finding this one to be even cheaper than one of the shady agencies that rents old, beat up vans to everyone in the hostels. I knew that the pictures online looked great, and I was excited to see my car, and it certainly lived up to my expectations. It is an orange VW sort of minivan/station wagon with some cool yellow and blue and grey vertical stripes, lizard logos and other great features. I checked in at the desk, and the agent had a whole packet of information for me and showed me the inside of the van. The interior was immaculate and very stylish, a row of two seats that folded down flat to make room for a double bed that sits on top of them with a perfect fitting cover and window shade. This van was much smaller than Willy, but it was just big enough for the double bed, so it seemed like the perfect vehicle for me traveling alone. I couldn't believe the condition of the vehicle as I did my inspection, and it turns out that this car is pretty much brand new! It has only about 1,000 miles, and just one slight stain on the back seat, and it is otherwise perfect. I was so excited about the car, and it even felt like it had a little bit of power as I pulled away from the rental agency. Power steering, power windows, air conditioning, a nice stereo, comfortable seats, fun to drive...all this and a bed and cooler in the back. I couldn't believe my luck in finding such a great deal on this, and I was so happy that I'd have this car for over three weeks as I make my way up the entire East coast.

Still excited about the car, I headed Southwest from Melbourne, making my way to one of the most popular roads in Australia - The Great Ocean Road. This is a beautiful stretch of coastline along the Southern coast that was constructed after WWI, and it's a huge tourist draw for the area. The road passes through pristine forests and along beach after beach before rising up to a plateau overlooking some huge sea cliffs and rock formations just off the coast. As I began the Great Ocean Road, I stopped at each of the first few beaches, marveling at the water and pounding surf, understanding with each of the magnitude of huge waves how Australia could be known as such a haven for surfers. The road is said to be littered with tour buses and rental cars during the summer, so I was glad to be on the road in the off-season, joined by other cars, but not experiencing the traffic jams and slow-going that would go along with all of the other people. Soon, the hillsides began to rise into small mountains, falling steeply into the road and then the ocean just off the other shoulder of the road. I kept one eye on the ocean and one eye on the road, scoping out potential pictures and hoping to see a bit of wildlife. Victoria, the state in which I was in, is one of the premier spots for spotting koalas, so I was keeping an eye to the trees, also hoping that I might see a kangaroo or wallaby somewhere along the side of the road. As I debated over which animal I was likely to see first in my Australian adventure, I stopped along the road for a nice overlook of the crashing waves, and I thought that I'd move some of the stuff around in the back, as it was sliding back and forth along every one of the innumerable twists and turns of this great road. Just as I opened the tailgate, my quandary was answered. A huge, hairy brown spider, almost the size of my hand came crawling down the side of the van, as it had apparently found its way inside the door jam to the back tailgate. I watched it climb down the bumper and kicked it off the car before searching for any evidence of any more of them in the car. I was very, very thankful that I'd found the spider then, instead of finding it while I was laying back there in bed, but I hoped that I wouldn't think about it too much while trying to fall asleep back there.

Not long afterwards, the road curved inland, and I came upon a few groves of eucalyptus (aka gum trees), and I hoped to spot a koala, so I kept sneaking glances upwards into the tall trees, hoping to see a dark spot or something. As I rounded one turn, I saw a few cars stopped on the shoulder, and the drivers were all looking up to the trees, so I knew that they had to be on to something. I pulled over alongside them and soon saw my first koala, high up in the tree just above my car. There were two or three more in the adjacent trees, mostly sleeping in the forks of the branches, looking like grey shadows from a distance. From the right angle, you could even see their cute little faces, looking as though they were smiling back at you. I took a few pictures, though not very good, and I moved on after a few minutes only to see another koala much closer to the road just around the corner. I stopped again, and I found the koala to be hanging out on a low tree branch just near the road. Another overjoyed tourist and I took a bunch of pictures of the koala, and he even went over and shook the tree in an effort to rouse the sleepy animal into a bit of action or to at least make it look at the cameras that awaited its every move. Then, we found another koala hanging in the branches above the road. We moved towards the koala and then climbed up the hill to get close-up views of him from just about 20 feet below him. As I was taking a few pictures, I noticed the other photographer actually climbing the eucalyptus tree and moving out onto a thin branch just opposite the one on which the koala sat. After a few precarious pictures, he came back down, and it was my turn. I couldn't resist the temptation to get up in the tree with the koala, so I climbed up the same tree, grabbing onto the sturdy white branches, hoping to not disturb the lazy looking koala. The tree leaned over from the hill over top of the road, eventually sitting about 30 feet high above the road. Looking down at the road and the thin branch, I hesitated for a second, but the solid wood felt good enough, so I sat down and inched my way out. Soon, I was sitting on a limb, just 5 or 6 feet across from one of nature's strangest and cutest creatures, with the koala just staring back at me as he ate his leaves and took a few rest breaks with his head propped up on the adjoining branch. His eyes stared blankly at me, as I examined his woolly, grey fur, white chest and furry ears. I also got a close look at his hands and feet, each armed with large claws to help hold on to the tree, in addition to having two thumbs and three fingers on each hand to help climbing. He yawned, dozed off, looked around at the cars below, and continued eating leaves, as I sat there in awe of this beautiful animal, not believing that I was actually in a tree with one of the creatures that captivated my imagination as a child. I had always been obsessed with Australian animals as a child, particularly the platypus and the koala, so this was an experience of which I never even dreamed, being this close to the animal, all in its natural habitat.

A few cars passed below, looking up at the crazy guy in the tree, wondering what I was doing, and then after about 20 incredible minutes, it was time to carefully make my way down the tree on get back on the Great Ocean Road. I passed along more beautiful coastline and forests, but I couldn't stop thinking about what had just happened. I had literally come face to face with a wild koala, and I had pictures to prove it. No matter what else happens in this trip, Australia has been worth it just for that moment alone...

(The new van and the start of the Great Ocean Road.)(The Huntsman's Spider that I found in my van. Nice.)(The first koala hidden in the middle of the trees.)(The next koala, not so hidden, as I joined him high up in the tree. Amazing.)(Now turn your head and cough. Hilarious.)(Hanging out in the tree with the koala watching the photographer. I dropped my camera down to a guy below to take this picture.)