Relieved that I wasn't stranded in a new town without any of my things, I walked down the crowded beach, through hawkers trying to sell me bracelets and hats, and I soon found the jet-skis at the end of the beach. I took my waterproof bag and my camera and hit the water. The water of the Pacific side of the narrow peninsula is said to be very, very rough, and the bay wasn't quite placid either. My wave-runner jumped up and down as I maneuvered the waves, taking in the views of the rocky coastline and steep hills that jut out into the sea. I visited the famous arch at land's end and even positioned myself to take a few pictures, though it's a hard prospect while battling the waves and constant wake of the numerous fishing boats, water taxis and other jet-skiers. Undeterred, I got some nice views of the rocks and hidden beaches before heading back in as my hour expired. The thin ridge of cactus covered hills leading dropping off here and there for small patches of beach was impressive, especially at the end with the 40 or 50 foot archway, surrounded by blue-green water and at Playa del Amor, a golden beach near the point which is almost inaccessible by land, with the tourists arriving via water taxi. Note that I said almost inaccessible.
After my jet-ski, I began walking around town, hoping for some shade and relief from the sweltering day. I made my way around the marina and found the beginning of the peninsula, hoping to try to make my way to Playa del Amor by walking up the steep hills or around the slippery rocks. I passed by a local beach of school-children and their parents and continued on, making my way up the hill, avoiding the cacti and sharp rocks. With a fence blocking my way, I headed back down towards the water and attempted to hug the coastline as I walked onward, sweat pouring down. I eventually made it to a small cave carved out by the water. As I crossed, the slippery rocks got the better of me, and both of my shoes were soon soaked. I pushed on, wary of the steeper rocks ahead. Just as I was making my way around, a local called out from behind me, asking if I was trying to make it to Lover's Beach (Playa del Amor). I said yes, and he told me that it wasn't really possible that way, as it would become much more dangerous with a few other caves. Disappointed, I turned around, but he then offered to take me there. I agreed, thinking that maybe he had a boat, but then I saw him deftly make his way up the steep rocks towards the top of the hill. I followed along the treacherous climb, figuring that I could do it if he could do so in sandals. Within minutes we had reached the peak, offering a wonderful view of the town across the bay and the rocks and beaches below. We continued along the ridge and eventually saw the Playa del Divorcio (Divorce Beach), which connects with Lover's Beach. Nearly deserted, this massive stretch of sand was much grander than I had expected with large Pacific waves pounding on the yellowish sand. We hung out at the two beaches for an hour or so before heading back to town, making our way up and down the rocks again before parting ways.
I was happy to have had Sergio as a guide, as I definitely wouldn't have made it on my own. As a local, he knew every rock and every step of the challenging walk, guiding me along the way.
After that, I made it back to town for a fast food dinner at a tasty local place consisting of some tacos and quesadillas. So good, in fact, that I returned for one more just before heading home for the night. Neftali and Cervando soon picked me up, and I headed home with them. I met Cervando's two roommates: a girl from Mexico City and Victor, a Mexican friend from Chicago. We talked for a few hours while the music blared from the stereo. Cervando told me stories about being in jail in LA with Axl Rose while we enjoyed his Guns N Roses collection, and Victor preached on about his mission to promote cultural awareness and pride, renouncing his earlier gang days. They also criticized the girl for not knowing much about Mexican culture and the general attitude of many of those from Mexico City, feeling that they are superior and higher-class than other Mexicans. The next morning, I bid farewell to the two of them, extremely happy to have met some 'locals' and shared an authentic experience, despite the less than luxurious stay and loud music going into the wee hours of the morning, making sleep a bit difficult. Before I left, I was treated to a nice breakfast by the girl from Mexico City (I never caught her name), and I took a taxi to the bus station. My next stop would be about three hours North, in the coastal town of La Paz.
The picturesque hotel in which I learned about timeshares.
Same place, with a nice pool and hot tub. Note the rocky peninsula jutting out into the water.
Same place, with a nice pool and hot tub. Note the rocky peninsula jutting out into the water.
The famous arch (El Arco) at land's end.
1 comments:
That is ridiculous that you attempted to hike in - and were able to make it with Sergio's help. Almost as ridiculous as being in jail with Axl Rose.
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