Voladores of Papantla

With my iPod and health intact, I left town heading for Papantla, a very small town close to the gulf coast of Mexico, about four or five hours away by bus. This town of just about 50,000 would be a big change from the hustle and bustle of Mexico City, mostly being known for a group of ruins just outside of the town called El Tajín. The city, located in the gulf state of Veracruz, is also known for its voladores, or flyers. These men dress up in traditional indigenous costumes and perform a short of bungee jump/hanging by a long rope. Looking forward to seeing both attractions, I got into town, and immediately looked for a place to stay for the night. Walking into town from the tiny bus station, I saw a sign painted on a building for a cheap hotel with hot water and A/C, so that sounded good enough to me. I headed a few blocks into town, asked a few people and soon found the bright blue hotel, El Farolito. For $18, I had a big, simple, unfurnished room with old paint beginning to peel off the walls and cold tile floors, along with a TV, A/C and a separate bathroom...no shower curtain, though. I dropped my bags off and headed into town to see the main square and church. Just in time for the nearly hourly performance, I saw the voladores, dressed in loose, white shirts and red pants with bright yellow, green, and red multicolored sashes and black platform leather shoes/boots that look like something out of the 60s in England, reminiscent of the Low Spark of High-Heeled Boys, if anyone gets that reference. The five short, tanned men walked around the town square and the church, trying to garner interest and gather viewers for their performance. They congregated around a tall narrow metal pole, about 150 feet tall, right in front of the church plaza. Soon, they could be seen scurrying one by one up the tiny footholds to the top of the pole where they wound up some long ropes, sitting on a small square of metal piping around the middle of the pole. Atop the middle was another tiny seat, where one of the men sat or stood, playing a combination instrument with a flute and drum in one, announcing their intent to begin the ritual.

The pan-pipe type music echoed through the air, and before I knew it, the four flyers had each simply fallen backwards from their perch, facing headfirst towards the ground, being held tightly by the ropes attached to their ankles. Slowly, methodically, the giant pole turned one rotation, then another, the voladores slowly descending, creating each time a slightly bigger arc. Hanging in the air from their feet, they each spread their arms like birds, circling the pole and slowly moving closer to the ground far below. All the while, the musician maintained his seat atop the pole, continuing with the celestial music. This continued for probably five minutes as the voladores got closer and closer, finally reaching near the ground, at which point they straightened out on the ropes and were able to safely touch the ground, not seeming affected at all by the height and danger of the whole activity. Quickly, one of them was already going around, asking for tips from the entranced tourists and even from the jaded locals, seeing this exhibition a few times a day whenever near the town center. Impressed with the spectacle, I contributed to their cause and moved on to look for some food for the night.

Just half a block away was the shady town square, covered in short trees and filled with benches. Hoping for a place with a view of the pleasant, relatively lively square, I spotted a place with great potential. A two story building on the second story of which a quiet, almost abandoned restaurant stood. I made my way up the saggy, metal stairs, hoping the combination of rust and my weight wouldn't prove too much for them. My risk was rewarded with a friendly, tasty restaurant where I had a few good burritos and some freshly squeezed lemonade/limeade (in Latin America, their "lemons" are more like limes). The best part about the whole place, though, was the view. Overlooking the entire plaza, I had the pleasure of being able to watch most of everything that was going on in town. I also had a great view of the church and enjoyed another of the voladores performances from my comfortable chair. Again, the flute and drums began, and soon they were on top of the precarious pole. I got a few pictures and went back to my flavorful dinner, enjoying the pleasant evening and tranquil town spread out below me.

Needing to catch up on a few things, I found another of the many internet cafes that I've seen all across Mexico. Not being much of a tourist town, though, this one was a bit different. Not that the computers were different, but I actually drew some attention as I walked in and found a computer. People were asking what I was doing, where I was from, etc, and one of the girls even asked for my Instant Messenger address, so that she could talk to me online, I guess instead of just talking to me right then. Perhaps she was just being friendly, but perhaps I had an admirer...only time would tell. Anyway, after a few, long, slow, frustrating hours on the computer, I managed to download iTunes and upload all of my new music from Mexico City, providing me with at least some music to tide me over until I return home. Again, it's not the end of the world, but it really is a great treat to be able to listen to good music on command. Returning back to my hotel, it was dark, and the shady alleys with no street lights didn't seem to be the place you'd want to hang out with any sort of valuables, so I speed-walked back to the hotel, trying to avoid anyone lingering in the shadows or doorways along the way. Fortunately, there was nothing of the sort, and I had a nice rest, ready for the next day at the ruins of El Tajín.

(The four voladores begin their descent as the musician sits atop the huge pole, playing his flute/drum contraption.)

(A few minutes into the performance, with the nice looking church as an added bonus.)

(Nearing the end, you can see their form and costumes.)

(Asking for tips and conversing with the locals. Check out the sweet outfit.)

(Performance number 2, viewed from the deck of my restaurant around the town square.)

(The plethora of guitars, strumming in synch while singing. Also, featuring a few mild guitar solos by the man (teacher) on the left. Check out the little tiny kids in the middle.)