Pulau Perhentian - too many people

An all day shuttle bus, including a few stops at slightly overpriced restaurants designed solely for tourists on tours with no choice but to patronize the restaurant in the middle of nowhere, got us to Kuala Besut, a tiny town and departure point for the Perhentian Islands. About ten of us piled into the small, covered speedboat, and we were on our way. Expecting a calm ride, we put on our lifejackets as merely a precaution, but we got out on the choppy seas, pushing the engine as hard as it could go, jumping and diving over the waves, pounding our heads against the overhanging roof and smashing us back to the benches below, and we were all glad to have them on, just in case. A few years ago, a small ferry boat sank in these waters, prompting the government to crack down on the type of ships used in the area. It was a rough trip, but thanks to the excessive speed, we got there in only 35 minutes, when the fun began. Not really knowing where to stay, I, along with the French girls that I had met earlier, decided to just head to Long Beach, the most popular place in the islands, thinking there would be plenty of places to stay. Carrying our heavy bags across the sand and through the heat, we went our separate ways, each desperate to find something. Up and down the beach, around back alleys, up steep hills and back down I searched, eventually finding one place with just a single room left for about $10 a night. This little bungalow setting looked nice with a few raised wooden A-frame huts around a grassy area just about a quarter mile from the beach, but inside they were less than luxurious. A tiny fan (with intermittent electricity) was about my only creature comfort, fighting against the heat trapped in the windowless box from the relentless sun. Happy to have a place to sleep other than the beach, I went down the crowded beach for dinner, opting for one of the numerous tables on the beach next to an open fire where fresh seafood was cooked. I chose the shark special, which was decent, though I'm not a huge fan of seafood. After a sweaty night enclosed in the mosquito net around my bed, I awoke to check out the picturesque island and hopefully find a little more comfortable place to stay. Even at 9 am, there were already backpackers roaming the beach, some looking for upgrades, most just arriving, looking for a place to stay for the night. Apparently high season is typically this way, with large amounts of people arriving, all assuming that they'll be able to find something when they get there, and this is clearly not the case.

In addition to the accommodation hassle, I was really put off by my first impression of the islands. Chairs, umbrellas and cafes crowded out the white sand beach, presumably a tropical paradise at one time before the development came in. This might be a decent mix of nature and partying for some, but it was certainly not the scene that I was seeking after seeing some marvelous pictures of the white sand and clear waters of Pulau Perhentian. I also probably should have stayed at a more secluded spot around the island, but without booking ahead, I didn't really have much choice in the matter. Parasailing, banana boats, scuba trips and anything else are all on offer, though I just wanted to get away from it all. Fortunately, I had noticed a rocky spot on the South end of the beach while coming in the day before, so I grabbed my things and headed there, hoping to elude some of the sun-seekers. As it turns out, I easily found my way to this 'secret' spot, and I was alone there for most of the day, lounging on a tiny little patch of sand nestled among some large boulders and thick forest pushing its way into the clear blue-green sea. This was exactly what I needed, a peaceful place to escape the commotion, though I was literally just a ten minute walk away from the insanity. The second night brought a massive tropical storm, sending lightning and thunder screaming across the skies above. I set up my chair on the covered deck of my bungalow and watched the powerful storm as the rain poured down. The storm lasted on our island for about 45 minutes, sending down huge lightning strikes that lit up the sky and appeared to even touch down on our tiny island, given the proximity and blinding flashes of light that seemed to be just around the corner. Afterwards, the sky cleared and the pleasant evening was much cooler (as was my bungalow), making it almost pleasant to walk around without sweating.

Situated just South of the Thailand border, these islands definitely have their scenic areas with massive granite boulders lining parts of the shore, giving way to shining white sand, backed by thick forests, but after coming from the laid-back paradise of Pulau Tioman, I couldn't help but long for something a little more private, a little more undiscovered and less developed.

(My tiny hut, bathed in tropical heat. Inside was a tight fitting bed and a mosquito net.)

(My idyllic little spot among the rocks. Only two or three other people came by during the day, so that was a nice change from the rest of the crowded beach.)

(Not too much sand but not too many people either. We all must make compromises.)

(Me and the beach, just hanging out.)

(A view of the more popular part of Long Beach, full of umbrellas, chairs and tourists.)

(The clear water of the Perhentians almost makes up for the large crowds.)

(Pretty amazing spot, I must admit.)

(Yeah, I tend to take a lot of photos in a place like this.)

(My tiny beach got slightly larger as the tide went out. Amazing how that happens.)

(The parting shot of my perfect little spot on the imperfect island. I had a bad impression of the place on my first day, but this tranquil little spot redeemed the whole island for me.)

(The powerful storm brought a few of the residents of my bungalow out from under the rafters. There were four different lizards, all very large, probably about the size of a burrito. As you know, you can relate everything to food.)